The Nubra Valley, which lies in the rain shadow of higher Himalayan ranges, is a (nearly) high-altitude desert that is typically expedition-friendly while other places are soaked by monsoon. It was just recently opened to foreign expeditions in 1994, and it is still relatively unknown. The hamlet of Hundar is near to the restricted zone, and valleys farther west are now unreachable unless accompanied by a sufficient number of India climbers and with authorization from the IMF and military. Many peaks between 5,000 and 6,000 metres have yet to be scaled. Jungdung Kangri appears to be the area’s prize, but it has yet to be tried because to its technical nature, lack of simple descent, and lack of awareness of its presence. A list of peaks climbed in the area may be found in the Appendix section.
Jungdung Kangri is nestled between the Dawa 5,890m and Samgyl 5,810m peaks, both of which have been climbed earlier. Between the Palzampiu Tokpo Valley (to the NW) and the Sniamo Valley is Jungdung Kangri (to the SE). The Ladakha mountain range includes several valleys.
Fly from Deli to Leh or take a bus from Manali to Leh (this road is lengthy and winding, but gorgeous; if you have the time, it’s great by motorcycle). The journey from Leh to Diskit takes 5 hours by shared Jeep via the Nubra Valley and across the Kardung La pass. Hundar is one hour away via taxi (3150m). A jeep track running from Hundar to Wachan is currently being built at the time of writing. Inquire about taking a Jeep to Wachan in Diskit or Hundar. Otherwise, Hundar to Wachan is a five-hour hike along a well-marked trail. At Wachan, you may spent the night in one of numerous modest homes. The valleys of Thanglasgo and Palzampiu Tokpo come together at Wachan. Walk up the Palzampiu Tokpo valley for a few more hours before turning left into a smaller valley that leads to Jungdung Kangri’s base. There are flat grassy places with flowing water at the glacier moraine’s foot, as well as nearby rock climbing.
Day 1: Travel Leh – Diskit – Hundar.
Day 2: Walk from Hundar to Brok Yoma
Day 3: Walk Brok Yoma to Base camp.
Day 4: Climb on base camp crag
Day 5: Walk to ABC
Day 6: Climb Central summit via “The Shaft of Justice” TD+
Day 7: Return to Base camp
Day 8: & 25th Rest days
Day 9: Walk to ABC
Day 10: -28th Face attempt
Day 11: Return to base camp
Day 12: -31st rest at base camp
Day 13: return to ABC
Day 14: Climb the True summit via the “Monypenny – Hall of fame” route.
Day 15: return to base camp
Day 16: Walk to Brok Yoma
Day 17: Walk to Hundar and return to Leh.
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