Chakula Kangri – The First Successful Climbing of a Virgin Peak in Ladakh Officially by Altitude Adventure
In the high and quiet mountains of eastern Ladakh, some peaks still wait for their first climbers. Chakula Kangri was one of those rare mountains. Standing at 6,300 metres, this remote peak in the Changthang region of Ladakh remained completely unclimbed until the morning of 25 August 2024.
On that day, Altitude Adventure successfully completed the first official ascent of Chakula Kangri. There was no previous official climbing history of this peak. We organised the entire expedition for Shekhar Bordoloi, a professional mountain climber from Assam, after obtaining the necessary permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). For Shekhar, this peak was the final and most meaningful goal in his ambitious “Project 5 Peaks” challenge. In just 14 days we successfully climbed five major mountains in Ladakh – Kang Yatse 2, Kang Yatse 1, Dzojongo East, Dzojongo West, and finally the virgin Chakula Kangri – and successfully summited all of them.
After completing the full expedition, we submitted the official climbing report of all five peaks to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation within a record time of 14 days.This is the full story of how that historic climb happened and why Chakula Kangri has become one of the most special peaks in eastern Ladakh.
Where is Chakula Kangri and Why Does It Feel So Remote?
Chakula Kangri rises in the Rupshu region of southeastern Ladakh, deep inside the wide and open Changthang Plateau. The peak stands close to the army area of Chumathang and is approached through the small village of Mahe. From its upper slopes you look down on three beautiful high-altitude lakes – Yaya Tso, Ordong Tso and Yusup Tso.
Unlike the busy mountains near Leh, this area feels completely different. There are no crowded trails, no tea shops, and almost no other climbers. The landscape is pure high-altitude desert mixed with glaciers, rocky ridges, and open valleys that stretch for many kilometres. Because the region is close to the border, access is controlled and the mountain has stayed quiet for a very long time. That is the main reason Chakula Kangri remained a virgin peak with no official climbing history until 2024.
From the summit the views are wide and powerful. You can see the twin lakes shining far below, the big Chamser and Kungser peaks, the Mentok range and many unnamed mountains that stretch towards Pangong Lake. Standing there feels like being on the edge of the world.
The Full Story of the First Ascent – 21 to 26 August 2024
We explained to Shekhar that Chakula Kangri was still unclimbed and that it was a technical peak. He already had strong climbing experience, so he trusted us completely to plan and lead the expedition after we secured the official permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.
On 21 August 2024 our team left Leh early in the morning. We drove along the Indus River towards the Chumathang area and continued as far as the road allowed. From the road head we trekked for about two hours carrying our loads and set up the first camp in a quiet valley. The air was already thin and the mountains around us looked huge and empty.
The next day, 22 August, we continued higher and established Base Camp under the mountain. The campsite gave us a clear view of the upper slopes and the glacier. On 23 August we moved further up and reached Advanced Base Camp. The terrain became steeper and more serious. We could already see the glacier, the long moraine, and the rocky slopes that led towards the summit ridge.
24 August was used for careful acclimatisation and final preparation. The team checked every piece of equipment, studied the route again, and rested well. Everyone understood that the next day would be long, cold and demanding.
Early on 25 August, long before sunrise, we started the final climb with two of our strongest Sherpas – Dawa Sherpa and Rinchen Sherpa. The route is genuinely technical. From Advanced Base Camp you first cross a glacier. After the glacier comes a long section of unstable moraine and loose scree. Higher up the slopes become steeper and mixed with snow and rock. Climbers need good balance, solid use of ice axe and crampons, and proper rope skills. The pace is slow and careful because one mistake on the loose ground can be dangerous.
After many hours of focused climbing, the team finally reached the summit of Chakula Kangri. Standing on top of a virgin peak is a feeling that is hard to describe. The wind was strong, the air was thin, and the view was endless. Below them the lakes of Ordong Tso, Yusup Tso and Yaya Tso shone in the morning light. In the distance rose Chamser Kangri, Kungser Kangri, the Mentok range and many peaks near Pangong Lake. Shekhar was deeply happy. He had just completed the final peak of his five-peak challenge and become one of the first people ever to stand on this mountain.
We recorded the whole climb carefully. You can watch the complete video of the first ascent here:
Watch Chakula Kangri First Ascent Video
On 26 August we carefully packed the camps, trekked back to the road head, and drove to Leh. On the way we stopped at the natural hot springs in Chumathang. After days of cold, hard work and thin air, the warm water felt like a perfect gift from the mountains.
Climbing Route, Difficulty and the Real Feeling of the Summit
Chakula Kangri is a semi-technical mountaineering peak. It is clearly more difficult than popular trekking peaks such as Stok Kangri or Kang Yatse 2. The main challenges on the route include glacier travel near Advanced Base Camp, long sections of unstable moraine and loose scree, steeper snow and mixed ground higher on the mountain, and the need for proper rope work, ice axe and crampon skills.
This is not a peak for beginners. Climbers should already have experience on high-altitude mountains and feel comfortable moving on glaciers and mixed terrain. The summit day is long – usually 10 to 12 hours round trip – and demands both physical strength and mental focus.
When you finally reach the top at 6,300 metres, the reward is huge. The 360-degree view over the Changthang Plateau, the high lakes, and the surrounding Himalayan peaks is one of the finest in eastern Ladakh. The feeling of standing on a mountain that almost no one has climbed before stays with you for a long time.
Best Time to Climb Chakula Kangri
The best window to climb Chakula Kangri is from June to October. July and August usually give the most stable weather and better snow conditions. Early October can also work if the weather stays clear. Even in the best months the mountain can be cold and the wind strong, so a flexible plan and experienced guides are very important.
Why Climb Chakula Kangri?
Most people who come to Ladakh for climbing choose well-known peaks. Chakula Kangri offers something rarer and more special. It has a real first official ascent history with no previous recorded climbs. Very few climbers visit the mountain. The climbing is genuinely technical. The high-altitude lakes and open wilderness around it are beautiful. And the sense of exploration and personal achievement is very strong.
If you already have solid high-altitude climbing experience and want a quieter, more serious 6,500-metre peak, Chakula Kangri is an outstanding choice. It gives you the feeling of true Himalayan adventure that is becoming harder to find on the more popular mountains.
Plan Your Own Chakula Kangri Expedition
Altitude Adventure planned, organised and guided the first successful ascent of Chakula Kangri. We know every part of the approach, the camps, the technical sections and the best way to keep the team safe.
You can see the full expedition details and current itinerary here:
Chakula Kangri Expedition (6,534 m) – Full Details
If you are ready for a real mountaineering challenge in one of the most beautiful and least-visited corners of Ladakh, we would be happy to take you there. Learn more about our team and why climbers choose us:
Altitude Adventure
Why Choose Altitude Adventure
Chakula Kangri is no longer a virgin peak, but it is still wild, quiet and waiting for climbers who want something more than the usual routes. The mountain is ready. Are you?